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Ancient Nanhui a blast from the past
11/11/2006 11:31

Shanghai Daily News

Xinchang Ancient Town in Nanhui District's southwest has a history dating back more than 1,100 years. Unlike popular local tourism destinations Fengjing Town and Zhujiajiao watertown, Shanghai's last ancient town remains relatively unexploited.

For centuries, Xinchang Town, once under the jurisdiction of Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, ran a sea salt producing business on the northeast plain of the Yangtze River Delta region.

Despite boasting an 1.5-kilometer main street from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the old town has never appealed much to tourists until recently. In its 200,000 square meters of residential area - one of the largest-scale examples of a Chinese ancient town today - locals still lead a peaceful life in the same houses where their ancestors once lived hundreds of years ago. District Special took a walk around the old town and here are some of the things it found.

Zhang Mansion

More than 20 of the town's mansions have been maintained, among them the Zhang residence being the most valuable. Floor mosaics from Holland, European-style door columns, along with traditional wooden window carvings provide evidence of its former master's wealth and unique taste. Now the mansion is shared by several local families and they still hold dancing parties in the Dutch mosaic hall.

At present, about 60 percent of the town's residential houses were built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Many have gardens and streams at the back of the houses which were used for transport at that time. Advanced architecture skills during the period have kept the buildings in good condition.

Address: 176 Xinchang Street

The Cultural Exhibition Museum

This new museum which was built in June will be formally opened early next year. Built in a two-storied quadrangle, the structure features four exhibition halls which have been cleverly attached. Visitors can climb up narrow wooden stairs to find themselves in a space facing another direction.

The making of sea salt - which encompass 10 steps, includes digging a pool and introducing sea waves, among others. What is interesting for visitors is a model showing workers and facilities that demonstrate the procedure.

Another hall depicts local daily life with five models showing a traditional Chinese medicine shop, a handmade clothing shop and a rice shop, among others. The models are particularly lifelike.

Admission: Free

Address: 376 Xinchang Street

The World's No. 1        Tea House

This tea house, the town's only three-storied building which is located  under a small stone bridge, has been operating for more than 100 years. Most senior citizens have fond memories of the place and often relax within its doors with a cup of tea, whiling away an afternoon with other people of their generation.

In 2004, the old tea house was renovated but its elaborate ancient style of decoration was maintained. The new decorations make the most of the afternoon sunshine projecting across its carved wooden window frames and ornate tables.

In a large first-floor hall, a female story teller playing a rare three-string guitar performs daily from 12:30pm to 2:30pm. Such a performance has been a tradition in China for centuries, and the town's residents still enjoy it very much today. The show is a mere two yuan (25 US cents).

Price: 25 yuan per cup

Address: 424 Xinchang Street

The Sanshierpin          Memorial Arch

According to a local senior citizen, previously there were more than 10 memorial arches in the town. They were considered symbols of high achievement in the national exams for selecting government officials in the Keju Test. After the 1960s, many of them were toppled. Today, the Sanshierpin Memorial Arch is the biggest and only one left.

Xinchang Town, which reached its peak during the Song (960-1279) and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties, was the most prosperous trading town at that time around Shanghai. This arch was to extol the Zhu family who achieved a high rank during the Ming empire's central government for three continuous generations.

Visitors can also watch a short play telling interesting stories of the arch, which is projected on a tiny model of the ancient town by multimedia facilities in the cultural exhibition museum.

Future Development

While the town's peaceful living conditions may be little unchanged for centuries, the local government has already mapped out a plan that outlines its future development. The plan, which proposes to divide the town into three areas that function differently for tourism purposes, will provide a complete picture of Xinchang's cultural heritage. It also emphasized the importance of preserving the origins of the local lifestyle. Most of the current residents will not be relocated for the development.

Getting there: Take the A2 Expressway and exit at Hunan Road. Turn east at the entrance of Xinchang Street.