Xinchang offers water, not crowded
10/1/2005 12:01
Shanghai Daily news
Buried amid the concrete jungle of Nanhui District lies a blissful
ancient water town that few people know of. Despite its low profile, if you look
hard enough, you will be sure to find Xinchang Town. Like a lotus on the
water, this once prosperous trading town is reminiscent of the renowned water
town Zhouzhuang. However, without the crowds, promotions and steep admission
prices, Xinchang, just a few steps away from its 21st-century splash, lies a
world away entirely. The town is well worth a visit because it has little of
the tourist-destination glitter. This is a place where people still live out
their daily lives surrounded by nearly untouched history. Xinchang, unknown
to the local younger generations, has a history of more than 1,300 years, and
the area developed into a market town of some size during the Song Dynasty
(960-1279 AD). The town reached its apex during the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368
AD). Back then, the area was a salt field, a place where salters settled down
and exchanged goods. During its most prosperous period, Xinchang's booming
economy flourished with salt fields, salt warehouses, brothels and casinos
everywhere. It was once called "silver Xinchang," the second-wealthiest town in
its area at that time. The prosperous past helps to explain why the Buddhist
Nanshan Temple, Taoist Dongyue Temple and a Protestant church still coexist
harmoniously in Xinchang. People from throughout the country traveled there for
the salt business and brought their different cultures, habits and
religions. The town still preserves its original semblance, even though it
has been threatened by various wars over the years. The town is a labyrinth of
narrow streets, tiny lanes and canals, interwoven with old houses, shops and
teahouses. Traffic across the canals is facilitated by a large number of
stone bridges constructed in different periods. Some 22 stone bridges are
scattered around the township. Among them, the Qianqiu Bridge, a traditional
arched bridge with stone lions atop was constructed during Emperor Kangxi's
reign (1662-1722 AD) in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911 AD), is the best preserved
and oldest of its kind in Nanhui District. Old houses, standing row upon row
alongside the bank, look exactly like boats berthed on the water. Mostly built
during the Qing Dynasty, the houses feature Chinese-style tiled roofs, white
walls and trellis windows. Walking on the small roads paved with polished
stone slabs in the town, visitors will come across narrow alleys hung with
washing, unrestored Qing-style housing with overhanging wooden second floors and
bare frame timbers. The buildings and the people have retained their
simplicity. Far and near, there are still traces of Xinchang's prosperity:
Several of the old houses, for example, still have three lines, a symbol of
wealth. Intrigued visitors will find out that many of the town's mansions still
bear beautiful brick carvings and delicate brick floors with complicated
patterns. Most of the old town's dwellers are elderly and friendly as well. A
simple request for directions may result in detailed, patient answers as well as
old stories about the town. A few inhabitants in the town have preserved
traditional arts that once boomed in older times. Luogushu, an old traditional
storytelling art, is a treasured part of the cultural heritage of the township.
Luogushu is similar to modern rap-music but performed at a slower rhythm and
accompanied with gongs, drums and vivid facial expressions. The art reached its
pinnacle during the Qing Dynasty as a popular form of local entertainment, often
performed in teahouses around the town.
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