Shanghai Daily news
This well-preserved mansion on Huaihai Road was first
built by Frenchman Lucien Basset more than 80 years ago. The house was later
sold to an American businessman. Today it still has close connection with
France-it is the residence of the French consul general in Shanghai.-Wm Patrick
Cranley
A pretty whitewashed mansion on Huaihai Road was the home of a high society
French family, and an American rascal, writes Tina Kanagaratnam.
In old
Shanghai, it was said that the British in the International Settlement would
teach you how to do business, but in the French Concession, you would be taught
how to live.
Lucien Bodard describes it in "Les Francais de Shanghai": "A
charming residential area dotted with imposing villas and large avenues with
their venerated names - sidewalk cafes, boutiques with the latest styles,
nightclubs ..."
One of those imposing villas (yes, on a large avenue with a
venerated name) still survives: then, it was the family home of Frenchman Lucien
Basset. Today, it is the family home of the French consul general. A high wall
now surrounds the house, but passers-by can still catch a glimpse of the cheery
sunflower tiles that bob just under the red-tiled roofline.
Basset, an
exchange broker, commissioned the architects of Credit Foncier Co to build this
beauty at 955 Avenue Joffre, today's Huaihai Road. Like all beauties, its
proportions are perfection itself: a pair of stout wings, their heaviness
lightened with pillared balconies, flank the petite central portion of the house
- a small covered porch in the front; a grand curved porch, boned with
neoclassical pillars, in the rear.
Built by French architects for a Frenchman
in the former French Concession, it is, like Shanghai itself, eclectic:
neoclassical pillars, a Dutch-style roof, an antebellum feel in the balconies,
and a garden, parts of which were once landscaped in the Chinese style.
In
the late teens, when Basset first began thinking of building his house on Avenue
Joffre, the street had only recently been renamed. Prior to 1915, the road was
called Avenue Paul Brunat, after an active member of the French Conseil
Municipal (Municipal Council). But the French of that period honored their
patriots by naming roads in far-flung colonies for them, and so it was that in
1915, Avenue Paul Brunat became Avenue Joffre.
Joseph Jacques Cesar Joffre
was credited with winning the Battle of Marne in 1914, a World War I tussle that
saved Paris from German invasion. For this, he was named "the savior of France."
(Joffre himself visited Shanghai, and his avenue, in 1922.) A photograph of the
house in the 1920s shows Avenue Joffre as it was then: a wide street,
surprisingly empty of people and traffic - save a rickshaw - with tram lines
running right up and down in front of the house.
At the time that the house
was built, though, things would have been bustling elsewhere on Avenue Joffre.
By 1918, the White Russians were fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution, and many
ended up in the French Concession. French, after all, was the second language of
the Russian Court, and many opened shops and elegant boutiques on Avenue Joffre.
By the middle of the 1920s, there were more Russians than French in the
concession.
The Basset house is beautifully preserved: the wood-paneled
entranceway still glows, there are still tiles in the sunroom, and the carved
paneling and decorative details within and without are remain. The sunroom opens
out into the lovely green garden, restored by the previous consul-general's
wife.
When the Bassets lived there, the steps out to the garden were edged
with overgrown rosebushes. Tess Johnston, author of "Frenchtown Shanghai,"
features original photographs of the interior from the Basset family in her
book. They show Arts and Crafts style furniture, which went beautifully with the
Art Nouveau-style banisters. Johnston also heard from Georgette Basset McCann,
Lucien Basset's daughter, who explained that quite a few servants were needed
for the upkeep of the house: "There were 12 (servants) and they all lived above
the garage: boys, cooks, coolies, chauffeur-gardeners, amahs and a laundress,"
she explained.
Although Georgette was a little girl when the family lived
there, her memories offer a slice of the good life in old Shanghai: she
remembers the dances in the salon attended by her older sister Edna (a
debutante) and her friends; the costume parties; Edna's morning rides. But in
1931, just a decade after moving in, the family moved. The reason? "The area had
become noisy from trams."
It was an American who bought the house from Lucien
Basset, for a reported US$150,000 - an incredible sum in those days. But Frank
Raven, a civil engineer from Alamo California, had money to burn. He had arrived
in Shanghai in 1904, without much money or contacts, and landed a job at the
Municipal Land Survey Office. Soon afterwards - still without money or contacts
- he became a silent partner in a real estate firm. His cachet was his knowledge
from the Land Survey office: knowing where roads were going to be built at a
time when Shanghai was in a road-building frenzy (second only to the current
road-building frenzy) enabled him and his partners to successfully
speculate.
Raven married Elsie Stiles, the daughter of a wealthy missionary,
sold his share of the real estate partnership, and started his own businesses,
Asia Realty Trust and the Raven Trust Company. He became a pillar of the
community: He sat in the front pew of the Community Church (on Hengshan Road);
he was president of the board at the Shanghai American School. A reserved man
and a teetotaler, he won the trust of the missionaries, the Chinese Christians
and the foreign residents, who eagerly banked with him when he opened the
American Oriental Banking Corp in the offices of the Raven Trust Company. (The
bank was incorporated under the laws of the US state of Connecticut, but
contemporary accounts say it was subject to no banking laws.)
"Deposit your
money in this bank and become a partner in the company," went the motto, and
many did.
In May 1935, Raven applied to the US court in Shanghai for a
liquidation. The companies had failed; Raven had been embezzling from them for
years. Reported the North-China Daily News in February 1936, "It virtually
pauperized thousands of people in China."
"There was much wailing in
Shanghai," said Ernest Hauser in "Shanghai - City for Sale." "Hundreds of
missionaries and refugee Russians, who were not rich anyway, had lost all they
had ever owned. Raven had gambled it away."
Raven spent five years at a
federal penitentiary on McNeil Island, Washington, never return to Shanghai, but
the "Raven Scandal" lived on.
Today, the house is once again the residence of
a French family, this time the family of the French consul general. Prior to
this, it served as the French Consulate General, one of six that France has had
in Shanghai over the years.