Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily news
Pork chop, home made sausage with roast potato and
Edringer beer.
The human body is a thing of great wonder and the way it conveys to its owner
the things required is sometimes very simple, others both mysterious and
marvelous.
With the days shortening and the temperature falling, appetites
are inclining away from salads and light dishes to those more hearty and fulsome
foods.
Those from a western background might find their thoughts drifting
towards potatoes: buttery, creamy, mashed potato with lots of black pepper,
perfectly smooth.
If this strikes a chord, then hesitate not a moment longer
and get thee to Dan's Old Farm House at 318 Julu Road, 400 meters East of the
junction with Shaanxi Road N. on the left.
The mashed potatoes are merely the
side act at this Scandinavian/German restaurant, but their contribution cannot
be underplayed. When partnered with Dan's homemade sausages, sauerkraut and
liberally irrigated with gravy the overall effect is magnificent.
On the
menu, this is called Wurstplatte, 85 yuan (US$10.49). Order it and it will be
preceded by rye bread and schmaltz (pork lard). Eat it all (six herby, spicy
sausages) and prepare to remain stationary in deep contemplation for some
time.
Dan Hansen is Danish, but he's been in China since 1987 - the majority
of his life. He came as a butcher originally to Beijing where his sausage making
skills were put to good use.
These have since held him in good stead such
that he is now the proud owner of Dan's Old Farm House and Shanghai Prime Food
Co Ltd.
"The quality of the meat we use is what gives our sausages the
difference from others," says Hansen. "We age our meat for 21 days which is not
usually done in China, this gives the meat more flavor."
Dan's caters
primarily to the robust appetites of the German speaking and Scandinavian
inhabitants of Shanghai but naturally, this being Shanghai, diners are from
every corner and include local Shanghainese.
The menu promises the food will
be just like mother would make, which rather depends but we get the
idea.
It's home style food. Soups like country chicken, clam chowder, goulash
and green pea all fall into the "stick to the ribs" category; go easy if the
plan is to have a main too.
Prices are mostly just shy of the 50 yuan mark.
Mains include proper hot dogs and burgers along with schnitzel, knuckle, veal
goulash, roulade (rolled beef), pot roast and tenderloin.
Portions are
plate-falling-off generous, prices hover around 100 yuan. Everything comes with
vegetables and potatoes in some form or another.
Big wooden six-seater tables
are the order of the day, informal, comfortable and sturdy.
Foliage hangs
from the lighting, which is low but not dim and huzzah the background music is
very much that: barely perceptible so contented chat prevails.
After 18 years
in China, Hansen has nothing but respect for the Chinese: "The Chinese are great
workers," he said, "with a little motivation, some carrot, they will try their
very best." On possibilities of returning home: "Whenever I go back to my home
village, the same faces are sat in the same places at the same bars, nothing
seems to have changed. It's like the tape stopped, their horizons seem closed.
Here I meet new people from new places every day and they fill me up with ideas.
I'll not be leaving Shanghai any time soon."
Wash down this substantial
tucker with a good pint of Erdinger beer, 45 yuan per pint, the perfect
compliment, but beware the aniseedy Black Pig shots, their effect is as strange
as their taste.
With more than 800 people booked to eat there over the coming
festive month, booking ahead is highly advisable.
Tel: 6258
5560