Douglas Williams/ Shanghai Daily News 

There's a fine line between overly attentive, when it comes to service in a restaurant, and downright sluggish. Zin falls into the latter category and to begin with, if diners are not au fait with this approach, it can grate.

This is particularly the case if one is more accustomed to the usual service style in Shanghai of hovering waiters and glasses topped up after each sip. Any irritation, however, is likely to diminish as the relaxing surroundings take effect and the difficulties of selecting dishes from Zin's rather excellent menu become apparent.

Zin is a 1923 shikumen lane house situated in Yanzhong Park, just back from Jinling Road E., which itself is just back from Huaihai Road E.

The park is one of Shanghai's little green gems and right next to Zin, a brook babbles and gurgles through bamboo thickets.

The building is a rare architectural treat too, all the more so for its stand alone, park location and its pristine condition.

Parking couldn't be easier.

The menu consists of starters, soups, pizzas (cooked in the wood fired oven), pastas (homemade pasta), roasted meats and grills. There are also deserts, naturally, and this being Zin Wine Bar & Grill, to give it its full name, there is a very extensive wine list.

The wine list prices start medium and go really high. The cheapest non-Chinese wine is 280 yuan (US$34.57) for a 2003 Riscal Tempranillo, a gorgeous, velvety and oaky red.

A complimentary glass of Gluwein takes the chill off and sets the festive scene.

Zin has gone Christmas crackers with tree, snow stencils and Judy Garland and co-singing rousing Christmas carols, including the version of "Hark the Herald Angel" with the glorious trumpet descant.

Seating is an area restaurateurs could pay more heed to. In a quarter full restaurant why seat new arrivals right cozily next to existing diners? This is almost always to the detriment of both dining parties.

The gamble by the restaurateur on more diners arriving to use the remaining seats is a longish one - first come first served.

Zin's dishes purport to come from the great wine producing regions and as a menu theme, it's darned fine.

Order eventually taken, no rush, the antipasto plate arrived laden with salami, ham, Parma ham, olives, artichokes, sun dried tomatoes, Italian cheese and rocket: hot Livornese sunshine.

Roast pumpkin soup with sunflower seeds, a cheekily presented whiff of rolling Nappa valley, both faultless.

Downstairs is tiled floor, well set tables, long racks of wines, the flicker of the wood oven, marble and slate surfaces.

Upstairs is more designed, high wood ceiling, up-lit tables, geometrical lines contrasting with circular, curving accessories.

Topping up one's partner's and one's own glass is really not so hard. There being sometimes as much as 15 minutes between courses shouldn't be a problem of an evening when one is out for dinner with a friend, spouse or partner.

A slight, not very pregnant pause may cause one to ponder: "I wonder what's happened to our mains." Before concluding: "Oh well, they'll be here when they're ready."

Duck leg cooked in a wood burning oven with Merlot and seasonal vegetables takes time but is very worth the wait: a small hill-top village in Corezze overlooking rolling deciduous forest.

The veal ravioli with spinach, mushrooms, truffles and a sage butter was excellent too, but those not so fond of butter would be advised to avoid: Piedmont mountains.

The chocolate souffle, alas, was "out of stock" so apple on pastry with ice-cream happily substituted: Reisling.

Banana flambe: Margaret River.

Zin provides a peculiarly Zen eating experience: minimalist service, the better for it and superb food in a relaxed stylish environment.

Three-course dinner for two with a bottle of wine was 800 yuan.

Zin Wine Bar & Grill

Address: No. 2, Lane 66, Danshui Road

Call: 6385 8123