Ayesha de Kretser/Shanghai Daily

The colorful Art Salon is brightly decorated both inside and out.

When you think of Chinese restaurants, the word noisy usually comes to mind in describing the atmosphere.
But the Art Salon on Nanchang Road, a small and funky Shanghainese restaurant, has found a simple way of avoiding excess noise.
In the middle of the restaurant is placed a large sign, which reads “Please observe [sic] the quiet ambience.”
And while most diners do, in the event of a raucous burst of laughter breaking out or a mobile phone ringing at full volume, a waiter will arrive to politely reiterate these instructions by pointing at the sign.
This makes the Art Salon somewhat of a rarity, however there are many reasons this restaurant is unique.
All of the artwork decorating the walls is for sale, and so is just about everything else. Should you like your cup, plate, teapot or chair enough, you have the option of buying one exactly the same at the end of the meal.
Oversized wooden chairs are mismatched with smaller Chinese antique models, and the tables are covered in doily like white table cloths you might remember from your grandma’s house.
Somehow, these elements combine perfectly to create an intimate and homely environment.
The lighting is anything but fluorescent, making bookings for tables of two quite popular and the service is friendly and personal.
With all this talk of atmosphere, one might think the food lacks in quality. It doesn’t.
The Art Salon delivers, quite simply, one of the best meals in any price range in Shanghai.
Dishes as uncomplicated as fresh cucumbers in garlic are always crunchy, sweet and perfectly seasoned. Only trouble is negotiating a path to the mouth with the slippery ceramic chopsticks they provide. Other less common dishes include
breaded beef with dried chili, in which succulent pieces of beef are fried to perfection in light bread crumbs and garlic
before being topped with ridiculously spicy chilies (think Chongqing chicken style) and coriander.
Also delicious are the simple river prawns, steamed in a delicate sauce with cucumber and served with Chinese vinegar. Mixed
vegetables with bean curd skin in oyster sauce are also good, as is the cold duck. A blend of rose and jasmine tea complements the flavors well, so say yes if asked if you would like to try the “special” tea.
The biggest drawback of the Art Salon is that it doesn’t have an English menu and is slightly too refined for one to be selecting dishes by peering at neighbors’ tables. The owner speaks English and German and will happily suggest dishes for you, but reading menus is half the enjoyment in going to a restaurant and certainly diminishes the otherwise faultless experience.
Given the small size of the restaurant bookings are essential.
A meal for four people with beer usually runs to around 400 yuan (US$49.38), although there is a wine list featuring 200
yuan to 300 yuan bottles of wine if the budget extends a little further.
Altogether an impressive dining experience for those wanting to combine excellent food with the right ambience.

Address: 164 Nanchang
Road near Sinan Road
Tel: 5306 5462