Hamish Wyatt/Shanghai Daily
The well presented Chef¡¯s
Salad
Since A Future Perfect has opened its doors to
Shanghai's designer cafe crowd, a lot of attention (and patronage) has fled from
Frank Steffen's first Shanghai venture, Arch. So if you are looking for a
stylish place with good food where you will actually find a seat, read on.
Arch is definitely not one of Shanghai's secrets.
The bar/cafe
at 439 Wukang Road has been operating for nearly two years and has been doing
very well, especially on the publicity side of things. As a Shanghai restaurant,
Arch has the rare honor of being written about in Time Magazine.
Time
Magazine labeled Arch as a "Focal point for the city's most discerning style
aficionados," and, when one considers the cafe/bars history, it is no real
wonder why.
Arch was originally established as an interior design
showroom (hence the name) and started off serving a very small selection of food
and coffee.
The original owner was Yale University educated Leslie Chen,
a Taiwanese architect who is responsible for the tasteful interior.
However, a designer cafe for designers didn't turn out to be what
Shanghai needed, and accordingly Arch changed hands.
The new owners knew
that the venue already had a cutting edge, original lay out and tasteful
decoration that made good use of space.
All that was required was to
import some good food and impressive drink.
Within weeks, Arch had taken
off and months after that, it was receiving critical acclaim from every
direction.
Yet now, as Arch's regulars storm off to A Future Perfect,
the atmosphere, reasonable prices and good food of Arch have been moved off of
the radar screen.
This has left Arch wide open and getting in and
getting served is now easier than ever.
Arch's food has definitely kept
up to scratch.
As a firm believer in the fact that any restaurant can be
judged by either its bruschetta or mash, I opted for the former and was very
impressed.
The small pieces were completed by dabs of pesto and sprays
of balsamic vinegar.
Next was asparagus wrapped in prosciutto. While
this wasn't as good as the bruschetta, the mint dressing and side salad were
nice and presented very well.
The mains at Arch are also fairly special.
The pan fried salmon with spicy tomato salsa and sauteed vegetables was
definitely the pick of the night, the salmon was cooked perfectly and was
beautifully fresh.
Arch's sirloin was, on the other hand, nothing to
rave about but the paprika potatoes and bearnaise sauce that accompanied it made
up for the undercooked steak.
Arch's prices are also a major draw, the
entrees are priced around 30 yuan (US$3.70), the mains cost from 50 to 85 yuan,
burgers are 30 to 50 yuan and pastas are around 50 yuan.
It has been
said by a number of people and publications that Arch has some of the best
cocktails in Shanghai. And there is nothing worse than high expectations.
Arch's cocktails are strong without tasting too potent. However, they
are a far cry from the city's best. Their Mojito uses a mouth puckering amount
of lime cordial and others, such as the dizzyingly strong SCSUATW were too
fruity to handle.
While these cocktails are miles ahead of many other
bars' attempts, they are surely not the best the city has to offer.
However, that shouldn't spoil ones impression of Arch.
Arch
remains a stylish, comfortable and laid back place for dinner or lunch with
good, reasonably priced food. Angelo G Guese, the manager of Arch, said of the
bar/cafe "I think people like it because it is a casual, friendly atmosphere.
The layout of the tables and a bar running down the middle of the restaurant
make it easy to talk to other people and network a little."
The comfort
and class of Arch does contribute to its overall appeal. However, the best part
remains being able to go to a quality restaurant such as this and no longer
having to wait for a seat. The crowds will return once A Future Perfect has been
thoroughly checked out, but for now this well-known restaurant has the comfort
and service of a well kept secret.
Tel: 6466 0807