Turkish semi-delight
6/1/2006 9:13
Shanghai Daily news
Front to back: Cold mixed starter, Turkish bread and
lahmucan.
Long under-represented and over-looked, food from
Turkey is slowly gaining popularity in Shanghai. Turkey is a massive
country betwixt and between the two great continents of Asia and Europe. This
central, crossroads positioning has famously led to a diversity and complexity
of culture and subsequently cuisine. Contrary to some people's view point,
Turkish food's defining moment is not the ubiquitous doner kebab. Not that the
humble doner kebab is a dish to be sniffed at, filling as it does a very
important culinary niche. Is there any other form of sustenance quite so suited
to the post-pub, pre-home twilight zone than a kebab? This, however, has proved
a double-edged sword all around. Many of those tired and emotional partakers,
who each weekend pour vague approximations of kebabs over themselves in the wee
small hours, are completely ignorant of the gamut of delicious Turkish food
available. Perhaps accordingly, actual Turkish restaurants are still quite
scarce. Anadolu at Hengshan Road opposite the International Church does offer
doner kebabs, and very fine ones at that. But thankfully, it also offers an
array of other Turkish dishes. Prime for your consideration, delectation and
consumption, I'd strongly recommend, is lahmacun (pronounced lamushan) or
Turkish pizza; more in a minute. Anadolu is a big restaurant capable of
seating upwards of eighty. It's traditionally Turkish in character - tiled
floor, some booths around the sides but mostly generous, if simple, tables and a
false, tent-like, chiffon ceiling. Under-utilised Were the air fragrant
and heavy with Cypress pines, the mercury hovering in the 30s, the stage graced
by some supple belly dancer and the restaurant alive with the sounds of
rumbustious diners Anadolu would be something to behold. As it was the night
Shanghai Daily visited, Tuesday night, we were the only people in. The
delicately seasoned lentil soup with spices and rice was just what the doctor
ordered on a chilly January night, especially so accompanied by the Turkish
bread. The cold mixed starter encompassing potato salad, humus, mixed eggplant
and mixed carrots looked and tasted good but was more suited to the afore
mentioned 30 degrees setting. Lahmacun is a lot like very good pizza: thin,
bubbly, crunchy and tasting slightly of the oven (traditionally wood fired)
where it was cooked. Instead of tomato and mozzarella, the bread has a
smearing of ground, minced meat that has a little tomato and a lot of parsley
and assorted herbs through it. A lemon squeezed over it brings out the flavors.
This dish is usually a starter or a light lunch but in Anadolu, two are served
together as a main for 68 yuan (US$8.40). These proved a very good example of a
very good dish although some more salad alongside would have been
appreciated. The main main we had was the shepherd's casserole, finely diced
lean and succulent lamb in a spicy gravy with green peppers and tomatoes. This
held some promise but, unfortunately, was brackish to the point of inedible -
surely not a purposeful ruse in the hope that guests will bump their bill with
more drinks to counter the effects! Lahmacun and pides (with a salad) all the
way then - avoid the stews. A meal for two with four beers was 370
yuan. Address: No. 4-7 Hengshan Road Tel: 5465 0977
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