Big Bamboo shoots and scores
25/8/2005 10:41
Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily news
First things first ¡ª I have to confess to a certain partiality as far as the
following bar review goes.
A view from within the bustling boozer. ¡ª Steve
Moonan
Whilst I appreciate that this opening statement may have slashed
my already meager readership, I¡¯m hopeful that those remaining will appreciate
my candor. The thing is that Big Bamboo does not require any help from me to
draw in any more punters ¡ª it¡¯s generally pretty busy pretty much all of the
time. However, of all the purveyors of liquor in this fair city it¡¯s to the BB
that I¡¯m drawn to more than most when seeking a little R¡¯n¡¯R. Big Bamboo is
located at 132 Nanyang Road (behind the Portman Ritz-Carlton) and though it¡¯s
not the greatest boozer in the history of boozers it sure ticks a lot of the
right boxes. So is it a bar or a pub and what¡¯s the difference? Well, I like
to think of bars as the little brothers of pubs and what bar doesn¡¯t aspire to
be a pub. Some may disagree. Of course, there¡¯s something of a geographical
element to this debate: North Americans almost exclusively prefer bars while the
drinkers in Britain and the Antipodes go for the pub feeling. BB, owned by
Canadian Bryce Jenner, looks for all the world like your quintessential bar but
I submit that it¡¯s very nearly vaulted into the public house domain by virtue of
the service it provides to the public. In BB there¡¯s a lot of sport (¡°That¡¯s
bar territory,¡± I hear my reader cry out), there are different areas depending
on what patrons are after (pub territory), but importantly it provides a certain
community spirit and a welcoming, open, fiendliness and familiarity normally
reserved for your good old-fashioned public house. A sports bar then but with
pub characteristics.
Bryce Jenner, proprietor and creator of Big Bamboo ¡ª
sanctuary to many. ¡ª DW
¡°It¡¯s basically my dream bar,¡± says straight-shooting
Jenner. ¡°I¡¯ve spent a lot of time in bars, I know what I like and this is it ¡ª
lots of games, lots of sport, good music, good value, decent service,
unpretentious and with cute barmaids.¡± And I can report unreservedly that BB
comfortably delivers on all these fronts. The service in BB is actually
extremely ¡°decent.¡± Drinks are fetched for you, tables cleaned and ashtrays
emptied with military efficiency by smiling, friendly staff. That¡¯s not
surprising since Jenner¡¯s background ¡ª albeit some time ago ¡ª was in fine dining
back in Whistler, Canada. ¡°I get angry when I go to other bars where I¡¯ve got to
clean up after previous customers because the staff aren¡¯t doing it right,¡± says
Jenner. ¡°I hate dirty tables, in fact I¡¯m very fussy about service all round.¡±
Service box hastily ticked. What do we look for in our bars and pubs? Many
things but perhaps above all it¡¯s escape and not purely in terms of drink.
Escape to familiar and comfortable surroundings where we can relax and where the
troubles of the day (or life) melt away like butter on hot toast. Somewhere we
can be stimulated but not taxed. Despite BB¡¯s usual busyness it¡¯s rare not
to be able to find a seat in this capacious hostelry. Several television screens
¡ª I say several because I¡¯m not sure exactly how many there are ¡ª are on
different channels usually with starkly contrasting sports taking place on each.
Always sport. The variety of channels can lead be a little confusion. Big
Bamboo¡¯s improbably named manager, Noah Wise, goes to Herculean efforts in
scouring worldwide sports listings to ensure all noteworthy sporting occasions
are telecast. There are two pool tables, a fuze ball game, table football and
a darts board all offering stimulation aplenty. ¡°Worn-out pool tables
really get my goat,¡± says Jenner. ¡°Ours are good and they¡¯re well maintained.
Everything in this bar is top quality. It¡¯s the details that make the place.¡±
BB is the sponsor of several sports teams in Shanghai. Musically BB has
more highs than lows, generally playing a good variety of contemporary and
classic rock though it does occasionally confuse its bar status with that of
club to the detriment of all present. That aside, we can tick the ¡°relaxed
stimulation¡± box. During his 13-year sojourn back in Whistler, Jenner learnt
how to build houses Canadian style and this he put into practice in BB after he
acquired it last summer, redesigning and refurbishing the property himself. It
has a good, solid, wood feel and there is not the slightest trace of
pretentiousness. Tick. BB is undeniably a ¡°blokes bar¡±though the
testosterone levels are tempered by a good smattering of female customers. There
is the odd ¡°tut¡± when dancers take to the tables or bar upstairs and a chap
takes a little prompting to answer the question he¡¯s just been asked three
times. It is very much a sort of straight from work, tie ripped off and
stuffed in pocket, ¡°be home soon love¡± sort of place. Many of the
straight-from-work crowd are still there at midnight and ever-so-slightly the
worse for it though the foreign language teachers thin out when the happy hour
finishes at 8pm. What a happy hour it is too ¡ª six actually, from 2pm till 8pm,
making delightful afternoon sessions at 20 yuan (US$2.47) a drink a perilously
tempting option. Tick good value. The food is fine ¡ª if one can¡¯t be bothered
going anywhere else. Jenner concludes: ¡°I¡¯ve done things my own way, people like
it and they keep coming back. We deserve our customers because we know how to
treat them.¡± And as one of his customers said: ¡°You offer us sanctuary.¡± Quite.
Hats off. Tick. Now, dear reader, if you¡¯re still there, a small
development. You will find at the bottom of this article my email address. This
is for you, yes you, to send me stories, articles, suggestions (steady!), jokes,
anecdotes, news, criticism (if you must), funnies and more jokes that you feel
might entertain readers of the Shanghai Daily. Publishable in a family newspaper
being the crucial caveat. I¡¯m quietly confident that by Christmas we may even be
able to make a half-page from your contributions but my editor thinks I¡¯m being
wildly optimistic. Do prove him wrong. douglaswilliams@shanghaidaily.com
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