Ale and hearty magnificence
27/10/2005 16:38
Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily news
It¡¯s kind of
strange that when considering a pub, somewhere people go to quaff beer, often
the quality of said beer is barely mentioned. Of all the big brands in the
world many of the biggest are beer brands and they¡¯ve done a pretty effective
job of acquainting themselves with us. So much so in fact that on
encountering a new unfamiliar beer the feeling is not dissimilar to that of
meeting up with an old friend. Bottle after bottle after pint after glass of
indistinguishable golden fizzy lager slash beer does inure one to the joys the
real McCoy. Not that I dislike standard beers, quite the contrary, but a
slug on Gu Bingzhang¡¯s, the beer production engineering department manager, of
the magnificent Fest Beer pub at 11 Hankou Road near the Bund reminds one there
is a whole other world out there. That¡¯s the title on his card not one I made
up. ¡°Our beer is fresh. Bottled and canned beer must be treated, ours is
natural. It¡¯s nutritious and the taste is much better,¡± said the Shanghainese
Gu, a veteran of many a media encounter. He learned his trade in Europe where he
worked for a number of breweries. Opened 11 years ago this sturdy
establishment is modeled on a typical German brew house. The black and white
tilled flooring, expansive light wood tables and a glorious circular,
central bar are merely the side show. The pieces de resistance sit within the
actual bar ¡ª enormous great copper stills. The pair gleam after years of
tender polishing and within the beer brews. There is the light beer and
there¡¯s the dark beer. The beer is served in 300 milliliters, 500 ml and 1 liter
glasses priced agreeably reasonably, 70 yuan (US$8.64) for a liter. The light
beer, modeled on a Munich brew, is cloudy and dry, hoppy and crisp and
extraordinarily quenching. One liter may sound like a lot but I would
forecast a second will be desired immediately upon finishing the first. The dark
beer, a Bavarian type, is clear, sweeter and has a distinctive though complex
molasses finish. ¡°Our malt comes from Canada, the hops come from the United
States, Germany and the Czech Republic and our yeast comes from Germany,¡±
said Gu, rightfully very proud of his creation both the bar and the
beer. Complimenting the beer there is an extensive menu with very good
quality and again very reasonable mostly Chinese food. My chicken curry at 40
yuan was completely acceptable, my friends ribs at 70 yuan extremely
good. The punters are an even split between Western and Chinese and though
the music was of the Casio Celine variety it was thankfully very background. The
Lady of Shallott art is an odd selection but easily overlooked in the face of a
liter of Gu¡¯s finest. As it says on the napkin packs: ¡°Your frequent
patronizing will be highly appreciated.¡± douglaswilliams@shanghaidaily.com
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