Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily
Blarney was the term employed by Queen Elizabeth I of England to describe the
Lord of Blarney, Cormac Teige McCarthy¡¯s, tacit and insincere diplomatic pleas
of loyalty to her in the 16th century.
He wasn¡¯t, much to her chagrin. It
stems from the Blarney Stone which sits at the top of the McCarthy ancestral
home, Blarney Castle in Southwest Ireland. The stone is supposed to be imbued
with special powers of eloquence that pass to anyone who kisses it, that very
same eloquence the Irish are famed for.
The Blarney Stone Irish Pub at 5
Dongping Road is a pub not unfamiliar with blarney or indeed that other famous
Irish export the ¡°craic¡± and both are available to first time visitors and
regulars alike in liberal doses at this friendliest of boozers.
Physically,
the Blarney bares a lot in common with a thousand rural Celtic pubs the length
and breadth of the Emerald Isle.
Walking in off the streets of Shanghai, one
sometimes feels the need to pinch ones-self such is the gentle, friendly,
familiar lilt of the place; it could be market day in Limerick.
This has been
brought about in the main by the managing partners Paul Curran and David Kelly,
Irishmen to be sure, who have been successfully running the Blarney for the past
four years.
¡°I want people to be able to walk in and not feel at all phased
by the place,¡± said Curran. ¡°There¡¯s no hassle in the Blarney, there are no bar
girls, it¡¯s easy to make friends, people share tables at the drop of a hat. It¡¯s
all very good humored and the music is good.¡±
The presence of Curran and
Kelly virtually round the clock, the quality of the staff in their employ, the
quality of the liquor, the music and the extensive sports coverage makes the
Blarney a home from home for many and a must visit for newcomers.
Curran,
initially wound up in Shanghai as resident musician at O¡¯Malley¡¯s after a career
path blessed with a distinctive, Celtic charm.
Originating from Dolphin Barn,
one of Dublin¡¯s more challenged post codes, Curran left for London in the early
1970s to work for Queen Elizabeth II¡¯s bank, Coutts.
This segued into
trading stocks and shares in beautiful Bath, West of London. Curran then became
one of the three directors of the Morris Minor car company restoring and
rebuilding these classic, fix it yourself, cars; he held the directorship for 13
years.
Between 1979 and 1997, Curran developed and honed his ample folk
singing skills performing regularly around the Midlands and the West of England.
He quit his post with Morris Minor to pursue music professionally in 1997.
A
year of solid gigging around Europe and Curran got whiff of O¡¯Malley¡¯s, an Irish
bar, here in Shanghai. The three piece disintegrated shortly after arrival in
China, but Curran stayed jumping ship from O¡¯Malley¡¯s when new management rolled
in and setting up the Blarney Stone with Kelly and Declan Surlis in 2001. Surlis
now occupies a silent partner role. Kelly is a bar professional, having served a
time honored apprenticeship in Dublin. He answered an ad in his local paper for
bar people wanted in Shanghai, he expected to be here for six months.
That
was in 1997. Back then, many of his favorite bars in Dublin were changing and
not in the way Kelly liked. Of the Blarney he said: ¡°It¡¯s funny you come
half way round the world and you get a more authentically Irish pub than many of
the pubs in Dublin these days.¡±
It¡¯s Kelly, said Curran, who keeps the
Blarney running like clockwork. ¡°We might be Irish,¡± said Kelly, ¡°but
we¡¯ve learnt how to use computers. We don¡¯t have many staff but those we have
enjoy being part of the Blarney thing, they appreciate it, they know it¡¯s a bit
special.¡±
Amusingly, the Blarney¡¯s Chinese staff increasingly speak English
with a definite brogue.
Invites to Curran¡¯s recent wedding to Sparky were
scarcer than golden tickets for Willy Wonka¡¯s chocolate factory, those who
attended speak in hushed awe of the happy occasion.
The music in the Blarney
gets going at 8:20pm most nights, sporting action withstanding, with Curran
delivering quality, authentic, Celtic folk drawn from the ¡°big teddy bear¡¯s¡±
extensive repertoire. (Kelly¡¯s description, not mine).
Musical instruments
are usually present ¡ª workaday. There¡¯s always a stack of papers and magazines
and very often the Blarney is busy with folks who are not averse to giving the
time of day. That last bit might sound like blarney but it isn¡¯t.
There is
an accusation that the Blarney is unashamedly expensive, the Rolls Royce of
western bars in more ways than one, and that it is at 65 yuan (US$8.02) for a
pint of Guinness.
There are no ¡°happy hours¡±. Curran makes no apology: ¡°Our
staff work five-day weeks where most other bars¡¯ staff work six. We pay their
tax and pension and we serve genuine liquor and proper full measures. Regulars
get very proper measures. Our Guinness comes all the way from Dublin. People who
are in with a party will usually get a free round on the house, it¡¯s just the
way we operate.¡±
A few bottles of Reeb and a stimulating debate on CCTV 9¡¯s
Dialogue would certainly be a less expensive option, but then again...
Kelly
on Curran: ¡°He¡¯s such an excellent ballad singer, his like wouldn¡¯t be out of
place in any proper folk club back in Dublin.
He¡¯s the classic Ronnie Drew,
pint in hand, folk singer, and as such we¡¯ve got the music side of things
stitched up.¡±
Plans are afoot for another Blarney. Kelly again: ¡°We¡¯re very
confident in what we have. We¡¯ll just watch the way things pan out, let the dust
settle and move right in to the middle of where it¡¯s at.¡±
The Blarney Stone
operates as a social hub for a lot of westerners living in Shanghai and it
provides the necessary lubricant at many levels. Regulars treat it as their
¡°local¡± and rightly value it as precisely that.
douglaswilliams@shanghaidaily.com