Hamish Wyatt/Shanghai Daily news
Walking into Time Passage at 173 Caojiayan Lane, things are not quite what
they seem. Time Passage appears, at first, as another one of Shanghai's cheaper
bars.
Quietly tucked off Huashan Road with nothing but a faintly flickering
neon sign indicating a watering hole is near by, the bar has the eclectic
paraphernalia of most local pubs and on my first encounter, a venomous and,
frankly rather unwelcome shot of eighties rock marked my entrance.
However,
as you sit down and have time to take in your surroundings, small differences
begin to stand out.
Firstly, the clientele are not your usual cheap bar
regulars. The entire bar is full of Chinese professionals, quietly sitting in
small groups over battered wooden tables. There is table service and no need to
pay after every round, which is a welcome change.
And sitting at the bar are
a group of obvious regulars, having a quiet laugh with the European
barman.
Time Passage suddenly seemed quite peaceful once these details set
in. And once the Bon Jovi was taken off and replaced by Bob Dylan, the bar felt
all right.
Price for a drink is around 30 yuan (US$3.70).
While quiet,
near empty, and not amazingly cheap, the bar definitely has a relaxed and homely
feel.
The barman on duty, named Jojo, is a French national who has been
working at Time Passage since 1997. Jojo spent most of the night talking to
costumers who had the unmistakable lounge room lethargy of real regular
patrons.
However, he did have some time to spare to talk to a new comer.
"This place is like a big living room...nearly everybody here knows each others'
first name," said Jojo. And to prove the point, he then pointed to each man
sitting around the bar and stated how long each had been drinking there.
As
Jojo pointed out the locals, he tacked on their profession. I then realized that
in this rustic, bohemian pub was I sitting next to a high-end plastic surgeon, a
senior executive of the Chinese branch of a well-known European company and a
lawyer.
The owner of the bar, Ai Jun, seems to have crafted Time Passage to
draw in a local crowd. When speaking about high class spirits, expensive design
and hostesses, Ai Jun said "I know these things can bring in good business, but
they keep the real customers away. Though there are not many of them in
Shanghai, a good bar is somewhere to have drinks, hear a piece of your favorite
music and meet those you know or be alone if you want. A place that feels like a
living room for both the owner and the customers."
While Time Passage is a
far cry from the typical Shanghai bar, there are still the classic offers of
cheap beer and ladies nights.
Tuesday is Time Passage's cheaper night. From
eight until 12:30, liters of draught beer go for 15 yuan while an acoustic band
play rock and Chinese folk songs.
Bands also play on Friday and Saturday.
All songs are sung Chinese and the band draws a sizable crowd.
Tel: 6240
2588