Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily news

Sasha’s was once home to one of the richest men in the world, Soong Tzu-wen. The elegant villa has a fine restaurant and a grown-up bar (above), packed with genuine character.

In this era of theme pubs and "entertainment" streets, it's heartening to come across a fully fledged bona fide pub with a history and a character all of its own.
Sasha's has history by the bucket load, it also has a great deal of character but perhaps above all, this 1920s built, French style villa oozes class. Few places fit with an outsider's image of an old, expat Shanghai bar quite so snugly as Sasha's.
Residence of one of the richest men in the world, Soong Tzu-wen, from 1927 until the Japanese invasion in 1943, this three-story building set back from the corner of Dongping Road and Hengshan Road has seen a lot. Soong's younger sister was married to Chiang Kai-shek, former leader of the Kuomintang; Soong was the Minister of Finance in Chiang's government, a position that served the multi-millionaire well.
After liberation, the grand building then became part of the esteemed Shanghai Conservatory of Music, a role it fulfilled until in the late 1990s it assumed its current role of civilized meeting place for those of discernment and taste.
Daniel Koppel, a Swiss hospitality professional with 15 years' experience in Asia, is the general manager at Sasha's.
"I think Sasha's captures some of the romance of old Shanghai," said Koppel. "Modern Shanghai is all skylines, futuristic buildings, business suits and selling bonds. I'm not looking at changing anything about Sasha's. There's nothing trendy about this bar, it's good the way it is. This product has personality and style."
Coming to Shanghai after five years of working in Thailand, Koppel was slightly taken aback by the contrast in service standards. "In Thailand, the people who work in the service industry have the attitude that they are there to serve and they are happy to do so. In China, it's quite different, it's a different mentality. Often staff have the attitude that just by them being there that should be enough," said Koppel. "This is not just me, many of the people I meet, and I meet a lot of people, have said the same. They have flown in from Bangkok, Manila or even Hong Kong where levels of service are much more advanced than here and often they are shocked."
Service management
Service in Sasha's is generally excellent, something else that raises it above the rest, but from a management point of view, it's not easy to maintain.
"Staff promoted to management levels often immediately assume they can boss around other staff, which is just not the way," said Koppel, continuing: "I think anybody opening a bar or restaurant here must really know their game and they must be sure they have the focus right. All fancy design and a top chef don't necessarily make for a great place. With globalization, people expect good service to match their food and surroundings."
Koppel speaks with some experience having originally arrived in China to manage the newly opened Nanjing Sheraton in 1990. "Most of the staff we had at the Sheraton were totally unfamiliar with knives and forks. They had only ever eaten with chopsticks and we had to train them to set five course banquet tables," said Koppel.
Sasha's attracts a more mature clientele, tattooed teens may feel nervous. There is a business element, cigar smoke is frequently the "Eau de Sasha's." It's a romantic setting, perhaps a little too romantic for a first date unless intensity is what's required. It's relaxed, classically oriental, with tasteful but functional furnishings and fittings and modern ambient music.
Neighboring Zapatas thankfully doesn't lower the tone overly though it does its best on the legendary, if agricultural, Wednesdays' ladies' nights.
Through the warm months, the garden out back affords a sublime location to take a cocktail but these days that might be a little foolhardy for anyone not of Innuit stock.
Koppel has recently introduced to Sasha's a winter concoction from his native Alpine region. It goes by the name of Krambambuli and it's basically a turbo charged version of Gluwein. Alchemistic activities involving sugar, apple juice, star anis, cinnamon, cloves and red wine culminate in sugar cubes flambeed with stupefyingly strong rum.
The pyrotechnics take place at the table potentially throwing up a fire hazard but after a couple of these cares will melt much like the sugar in the rum.
It looks fantastic, it tastes like alcoholic Christmas pudding and its effects are warming and slowing. The pot holds about 2.5 liters and it costs 500 yuan (US$61.73). Between two this could be curtains.
douglaswilliams@shanghaidaily.com