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Paean to the umbrella
20/1/2006 10:15

Douglas Williams/Shanghai Daily news
Going out of a night when the conditions are such as they are isn't all that appealing. Settling down on the sofa, DVD ready to role, pistachios and beer at hand makes a lot of sense. The clincher is always that little line: "It'll be murder getting a taxi." Visions of standing around ankle deep in small rivers in the bucketing rain and taxis, without that crucial little red light, zipping past are enough to have one reaching for the remote.

Ok so there are worse gigs than reviewer of bars, granted, but on a cold, January Tuesday night there are minuses too.

It's at times like these I like to pause and give thanks for small mercies. Let's take one of these ¡ª a cute little mysterious feature of Shanghai that make this such a fantastic city to live in: By the time the first dozen rain drops hit the streets mushrooming, from who knows where, are all these lovely people selling umbrellas? How convenient. My current version cost 20 yuan (US$2.48) and it works fine. It's my third purchased from these God sends but then that's the nature of umbrellas ¡ª they come they go.

So Tuesday night and probably my most discerning of friends suggests checking out The YongFoo Elite (No. 200 Yongfu Road, 200 meters from the junction with Fuxin Road W.).

We pitch up having walked (jogged) from the junction to the absolute bewilderment of the "welcomer." Perhaps people don't walk there. The Maserati parked outside was further proof, as if the name were not a clear give away, of the lofty aspirations of this former private club. The sleek sports car was either a very clever bit of symbiotic marketing or a customer's. Both possibilities seemed equally likely.

It is an extraordinarily beautiful place. Unfortunately, a private party meant a drink could only be had in the restaurant.

MBA types noisily exchanging club class anecdotes made the dining area of limited appeal so a return visit will be required, perhaps in sunnier climes.

Onward to Shanghai's premier jazz bar, the JZ Club (No. 46 Fuxin Road W.) We arrived slightly soggy but alas at 9pm the band were in noisy and discordant set-up and would be until 10pm. Exit stage right. More on that fine bar another time. My umbrella now put to full effect, finally a taxi was found that whisked us to Old Manhattans (No. 231 Huashan Road) where the female member of the party ducked out.

The welcome in Old Manhattans was a lot warmer. I ordered two beers whereby the server told me that A. I was very handsome and B. My Mandarin was very good ¡ª both total lies. Luckily my friend's Mandarin is very good and he requested that we be left alone to discuss "business." This she did, no bother at all. The girls are friendly but not pushy. Across the road from the Hilton, Old Manhattans has two claims to fame: It's one of the oldest western bar in Shanghai, established in 1986 and it serves pizza later than anywhere else in the city. Pizzas are available until 5am.

Curries are available upstairs. It's a friendly place and ideal for pilots and the like in residence across the road. It also makes a convenient pit-stop for thirsty and hungry clubbers post nearby VIP Room although they may not like the music. A collection of rock stalwarts played, including the ubiquitous "Hotel California." What is it about Shanghai and that song? Guaranteed it's playing somewhere, some time, 24/7. Old Manhattans is not a destination bar, but as a late night round the evening off type place with genuinely friendly staff, a certain charm and a very relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere it's grand.

It's easy to find a taxi round there too.

douglaswilliams@shanghaidaily.com