-- A chase for waterfalls, beauty and pearls in Zhuji

An overlook of Zhuji. 

Jane Chen / Shanghai Daily news

Retreating from the seclusion of Wuxie, I set of on a trip to Xishi Temple in suburban Zhuji.

Along with Diao Chan, Wang Zhaojun and Yang Yuhuan, Xishi is famed as one of ancient China's most beautiful ladies. She lived some 2,500 years ago, making a living by washing weaves in the Huan River of Zhuji.  Around 500BC, Zhuji was the capital of the then Yue State  during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476BC).

Xishi was chosen by King Gou Jian of Yue to be a tribute to King Fu Chai of the Wu State.  Trained as a spy, she totally bewitched Fu Chai.  Gou Jian launched his attack and put the Wu army to rout. Fu Chai then committed suicide. The irate Wu people drowned Xishi in the Yangtze River in retaliation.

The statue of Xishi in the Xishi Temple.

Despite all this, Xishi is remembered as a heroine in her hometown, where a temple is built on the site in the village where she is believed to have lived.

The temple is small, and a 30-minute tour suffices to see everything.  But my guide said that what attracts in the temple is not its size but the quality of the architecture.  Decorations and parts of the structure date back 200 years.

A pond of waterlily in the garden.

The gardens are typical of Zhejiang, small yet beautiful, delicate and elegant.

The stone walkway along the garden features numerous stone tablets featuring scripts left behind by celebrities, including the poet Li Bai.  Some are contributions from Japanese calligraphers to the memory of her long-gone beauty.

A yellow flower is in full bloom in the garden.

In the middle of the park stands a tower, where you can enjoy a bird's eye view of the park as well as of the Huan River silently rolling through Zhuji.  On the opposite, or east, side of the river, a second-phase project is under construction that will form part of the Xishi Temple.

A bird's view over the Xishi Temple.  The river, Huan River, is where Xishi was said to wash weaves.   On the opposite, or east, side of the river, a second-phase project is under construction that will form part of the Xishi Temple.

Our guide said the new project will be named Dongshi Temple, which triggered a burst of laugher among the visitors.

For Chinese, the name is really funny and bodes-ill.  As the legend goes, Dongshi was a lady who always tried to imitate Xishi, but invariably to ludicrous and ultimately embarassing effect.

Everyone is now looking forward to the park's new attraction!

It is no surprise to learn that pearls are a key speciality of Zhuji, the hometown of the country's great beauty.  The city, a leading site of fresh-water pearl cultivation in China, now boasts a leading pearl market.

Because of the tight schedule, I was unable to strike a bargain at that market, which people at my hotel advised was some way out of town.  But I did manage to buy some pearl products at a smaller market in downtown Zhuji. 

A pearl necklace bought in Zhuji.

The pearls may not be such good bargains, but at least I received a good ABC of pearls from the anxious eager-to-please trader.