In ancient Chinese society, it was all strictly' specified which class should wear what on what occasions. What the emperor wore on important occasions had a special name: Mianfu.
Mianfu is a set of garments including the mianguan, a crown with a board that leans forward, as if the emperor is bowing to his subjects in full respect and concern. Chains of beads bang at front and back, normally twelve chains each, but also in numbers of nine, seven, five or three, depending on the importance of the occasion and the difference in ranks. The jade beads are threaded with silk, ranging from nine to twelve in number. Hairpins are used to fasten the crown to the hair, and two small beads hang above the ears of the wearer, reminding him to listen with discretion. This, like the board in front of the crown, has important political significance.
The
upper garment of emperors is normally black while the lower garment is normally
crimson. They symbolize the order of heaven and earth and should never be
confused. Dragon is the dominant pattern embroidered on the emperors clothing,
although another 12 kinds of decoration can be seen as well, including symbolic
animals, or natural scenes with sun and moon. These patterns are allowed on the
lords as well, but they differ in complexity according to different ranks and
importance of the occasion.
Mianfu with upper and lower garments are
fastened with a belt, under which a decorative piece called bixi or knee
covering bangs down.
This piece of decorative cloth originated in the days when people were
wearing animal skins, used primarily for covering the abdomen and the genitals.
This part of clothing remained until later years, becoming an important
component of the ceremonial wear. Even later, the bixi became the protector of
the royal dignity. The emperor's bixi is pure red in color.
Shoes to go
with the mianfu are made of silk with double layered wooden soles. Another kind
exists that uses flax or animal skin as the sole depending on the season. By
order of importance, the emperor wore red, white or black shoes on different
occasions. The most outstanding feature of the Chinese royal attire is the
embroidered dragon. In Ming and Qing Dynasties, the robe had to have nine
dragons embroidered, on front and back of the two shoulders and two sleeves, as
well as inside the front lapel, displaying the royal prominence bestowed by the
gods.