The Heart of Hengshan Road

 

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    Known today as one of Shanghai’s most popular nightlife locations, the Hengshan Road region has gone through many major changes, as the area has been constantly redeveloped over the years. Looking far back into Shanghai’s 19th century past, the area was once was farmland, and as Shanghai expanded the area eventually became a neighborhood of humble homes holding thousands of the city’s poor Chinese laborers. As the French Concession grew, the boundaries expanded to include the region, and most of the poor houses were gradually replaced by fancy European style homes and apartment houses. Many of these buildings with their European architecture still line Hengshan Road today, contrasting with Shanghai’s more traditional Chinese homes. At two kilometers long, the road itself was built in 1922, although during those days of French control it was known as Avenue Petain.

  In recent years as China’s economy began opening up, foreigners gradually returned to Shanghai, and a number of bars began to open along Hengshan Road. Some of these bars are located inside a few of the areas old historic mansions, with one example being Sasha’s restaurant and bar. This well preserved building was once owned by the Soong family, one of the most powerful families of 20th century China. One of the Soong family daughters married Sun Yat Sen, and another daughter married Chiang Kai Shek.

  Today high rise apartments can be found right next to some of the older, crowded apartment blocks. But more noticeable are the old European buildings still standing along Hengshan. Many of these historic structures are now adorned with preservation plaques, assuring that they won’t be torn down by developers, and will remain part of the neighborhood landscape for future generations.

  Many various food styles can be found in the restaurants located up and down Hengshan. Numerous ethnic eateries abound, from the Tibet Bar with its live Tibetan dance shows, to the Italian food next door at Pasta Fresca da Salvatore. For the Americans there is a TGIFriday’s, and British patrons favor a number of Irish pubs for fish and chips. From Cantonese, to Japanese, to Turkish kebabs, there’s something for just about everyone’s tastes around Hengshan.

  Most of all, Hengshan Road is best known for hosting some of Shanghai’s most booming nightlife. A drive down the road on a weekend night sees the area packed with partygoers, with patrons scrambling for taxis, as bright colorful flashing lights shine down from the many area nightspots. There are the aforementioned Irish pubs, discos for dancing, as well as numerous smaller, quiet bars for those who prefer a more relaxed evening.

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